Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy Tutorial

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Hot Air Balloon Quilted TaggyPlease welcome my fellow Air Force wife, friend, and former neighbor and running parter, Alicia, who is sharing an awesome quilting tutorial today! Learning to quilt has been on my to-do list a long time and with something this size, it seems more manageable doesn’t it? Read on to learn how to make this quilted taggy.


My name is Alicia and I am a craft addict, Air Force wife, fitness buff, and mommy! I have two beautiful boys and with all the testosterone floating around I have to take my need to make girly things out on blog-land with my blog at Two Kids and a Blog.

One of my passions is quilting. It can be super intimidating and so I have come up with this small project so that you can get your quilting toes wet! This project uses all the techniques you would use in a full size quilt but it is a small and so hopefully much easier.

So let’s go ahead and get started.  What you will need for this project is a small amount of several fabrics.  I used brown, yellow, and red.

  • Three red strips that measure 2″ x 6″
  • A brown square that is 3″ x 2″
  • Four yellow 2″ squares
  • A handful of yellow strips 2″ wide and 6-8″ long
  • A 14″ square for the back
  • A 2.5″ x 60″ strip for binding
  • Several pieces of coordinating ribbon

Once you have your strips cut you will start by making the center of the square.  Take your two balloon pieces, I used red for my balloon, and line the yellow squares up on the edges as pictured below.  You can pin them in place, or if you are lazy like I am you can simply press them down.  I would recommend that you use pins throughout this project if you are new to sewing or if you aren’t confident in your ability to keep everything lined up as you sew.  Throughout the tutorial you will always want to use a scant 1/4″ seam.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Once you have lined them up and pinned or pressed the square in place you will want to put your ruler over the top of each yellow square and draw a diagonal line.  This is the line you will be sewing on so make sure that it is lined up nicely with each corner of the yellow square.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

The lines should point down towards the outer right on one strip and towards the outer left on the other strip (below).

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Sew along your pencil mark on all four squares.  Trim the excess off leaving a 1/4″ seam and press the seam to the dark side of the fabric.  Don’t skip these steps.  Pressing is one of the most important parts of quilting!!

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Next we will add our first taggy ribbons to the piece.  Take two strips of ribbon and fold each side in making an arrowhead shape as pictured below.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Pin this ribbon facedown on to the top inside edge of each red/yellow balloon piece.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

We will work with one side at a time, pin the remaining red strip right side down over top of the ribbon.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Sew these two pieces together using a 1/4″ seam.  Press the seam to one side.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Now pin the other side right sides together to complete the balloon.  Sew and press.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Once you have pressed the piece flat you will need to trim it up.  You will constantly be squaring up the piece in order to keep it crisp and clean.  I put my ruler along the seam I just made and use that as a straight edge to trim the outer edges.  The piece will not necessarily be a square you just want it to be straight all the way around.  This also gets rid of the excess threads.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Now we are going to start adding strips to the edges.  Each strip should be 2″ wide and go the entire length of the side you are adding it to.  If you don’t have a strip that is long enough just sew two together (you will trim any excess off when you square the piece up again.)  You can see below that I had some excess which is not a problem.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Once you have added one strip around the entire balloon you will want to make the basket portion that goes underneath the balloon.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

I used a 2″ x 3″ brown strip and sewed a yellow strip onto either side.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Pin this right side down to the strip below the balloon.  Line up the brown piece with the center strip of the balloon so that it is straight.  Again there will be some excess yellow on either side that you can trim off once it is sewn in place.  We are also going to add our next piece of ribbon.  I used a 1″ piece of velour ribbon.  Fold it in half and place the raw edges along the seam that you are going to sew.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Sew, press, and trim.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Now we will do one more round of yellow strips around the entire piece.  Make sure that you do the sides and then trim and then the top and bottom (or you can do the top and bottom and trim and then the sides.)  This way you will always be sewing straight lines and not having to join corners.  I added some white ribbon to random places on my square.  I used the same method as above folding the ribbon in half and placing the raw edges in line with the edge you are about to sew.  I made them big loops and then tacked it down in the middle to make two loops.  You can add ribbon anywhere you want on the piece now that you see how easy it is to add them in.  Square up the edges and the top is complete!

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Now you will line the top piece up on top of the bottom piece wrong sides together and pin them.  Make sure that the bottom piece is about 1 inch bigger all the way around than the top piece.  I don’t like the stiffness batting gives a taggy blanket so I have opted not to use it.  If you want to add batting you would simply cut it to the same size as the back piece and pin it in between the top and bottom pieces.  This is entirely a personal preference.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Next, you will quilt the two pieces together.  I have made a video to show you how simple this is!  You will need to put the quilting plate on the feed dogs of your sewing machine as well as switch out the foot and replace it with the quilting foot if you have one.  I am demonstrating a stippling technique.  It is basically like doodling with the sewing machine by drawing a squiggly line all around.  You will want to start in the middle and work your way out.  Make sure that you avoid the pins as well as the ribbons.  Just pull the pins as you go.  Move your piece around keeping the top flat.  When you start you will want to pull the bottom thread through with your first stitch and then stitch in place to create a knot.  You can trim these two threads before you actually start sewing to avoid having to move the long ends out of the way (as I had to do in this video!)  You don’t have to use this stippling method.  A small piece like this is a great place to try out different quilting techniques.

Quilt all the way around.  You can overlap a little onto the excess bottom piece to make sure that the top is secure all the way around.  Use a rotary or scissors to cut the excess backing off leaving the front and back flush with each other.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

The last step is to add the binding.  Sew your 2.5 inch strips together until the whole piece measures 60 inches.  Press the entire strip in half wrong sides together.  Line up the raw edges with the raw edges on the back of your piece.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

You will not pin all the way around just place one pin several inches from the beginning of the binding.  Do not start near a corner, start in the middle of one side.  When you start sewing, sew 1/4″ from the outside of the binding and start several inches in (where you placed the pin.)

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Sew almost all the way to the corner.  Stop sewing 1/4″ from the bottom and back stitch to hold.  Cut the thread and fold the binding away from the piece to form a triangle.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

While holding the triangle in place fold the binding back over itself and line the raw edge up with the next side of your backing.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Begin sewing again at the very top edge of piece.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Sew the rest of the way around forming each corner in the same manner.  When you have formed the last corner you will want to trim any excess binding leaving just enough to tuck into the few inches of binding you left un-sewn at the beginning.  Sew the rest of the way around.

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Now that the back of the binding is sewn you will turn the piece over and fold the binding over covering the raw edge.  If you want you could add more ribbon at this stage depending on how many tags you want on your piece, I elected not to add more.  Pin in place.   The corners should make a nice miter if you have sewn them correctly on the other side.  Many people like to hand sew the front of the binding in place.  My personal preference is to simply machine stitch it in place on the top as well.  I am way too excited at this point to pull out my needle and thread and spend hours finishing!

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Sew all the way around either by hand or with the machine, trim any excess threads and you are finished!

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

Hot Air Balloon Quilted Taggy

I hope this sparks your quilting interest and gives you a good introduction into all the different steps that go into a quilt.  Enjoy!


Thanks so much Alicia for such an awesome post!

You can find Alicia/Two Kids and a Blog on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram.

Are you a blogger interested in guest posting? Read more about how to get featured here.

Happy creating!

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12 Summer Sewing Tutorials for Girls

12 Summer Sewing Tutorials for Girls

Sewing is something I love that’s been pushed low on the priority list the past year. I’m working on getting it back up there because I really miss it. But in the meantime, here are 12 of my past sewing tutorials for girls.

For several of the dresses, I use shirring. You can find my sewing basics tutorial on shirring here.

  1. The Harper Maxi Dress
  2. The Piper Dress
  3. Shabby Chic Circle Skirt
  4. Little Flower Child Sundress
  5. The Patchwork Dress
  6. The Olivia Tunic Dress
  7. The Summer Harem Pant
  8. The Chloé Dress
  9. The Ruffled Yoga Mini
  10. The Bandana T-Shirt Dress
  11. The Layered Twirly Dress
  12. The Lyla Dress (my only e-pattern over on YouCanMakeThis.com)

Happy sewing!

Linking up on Link Party Palooza at TT&J

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DIY Craft Room: Jumbo Framed Pegboard Wall

DIY Craft Room: Jumbo Framed Pegboard Wall

DIY Craft Room: Jumbo Pegboard Wall

DIY Craft Room: Jumbo Framed Pegboard Wall

If you follow me on Instagram or Facebook, you’ve been getting a few sneak peeks of this project we completed last weekend. Prior to a week ago, my craft “space” was the laundry room, which was shared with the dogs and the laundry machines. As it only had a tiny counter with a sink in it, I usually took over the kitchen table for my crafting, which my husband just loved (sarcasm). With being part of the 2014-2015 Silhouette Design Team (yay!), my crafting has been in high gear lately so we decided it was time I had a proper space.

The spare bedroom was rarely used and held just a twin bed, small nightstand, and leather recliner. We sold the bed and recliner in just a day and then the Jumbo Peg Board Project began!

I started looking up ideas and really loved the big size of this pegboard at Honeybear Lane. I decided to go even bigger because the closet in the to-be-craft room was filled already so, the wall would need to organize the bulk of my crafting goodies.

Off to Lowe’s Home Improvement we headed we three kids in tow. The guy who helped us was awesome! He was a chatterbox and the kids loved him (that’s them giving him “knuckles” below). BUT……..we totally didn’t think about how we’d fit a huge 4 ft x 8 ft pegboard in a van with 3 kids in carseats/boosters. There was no way it was fitting in. We tried. And tried. And then we tied it to the roof which turned out to work fine. All the holes in the board allow the wind to pass through. Whew!

DIY Craft Room: Jumo Framed Pegboard Wall

When we got back and put the kids to bed, I immediately went to work painting the pegboard and the framework.

We spent around $100 to get all the supplies. Everything else you’ll see on the board are things I had, “shopped” for from around our house, or made for the board. The frame pieces cost the most at $36 worth of the project…since I wanted the pretty, decorative stuff!

For this project we purchased:

  • 1 (4ft x 8ft) white pegboard
  • 3 (8 ft) trim pieces
  • 4 (2.5″x2.5″ wood block corners)<—Adding these was my husband’s idea. He’s pretty smart sometimes! :)
  • 3 bottles pegboard spray paint, 1 bottle trim spray paint
  • Peg Board Accessories kit and various extra pieces

I did three coats of the Valspar spray paint on the board (color: Flat, La Fonda Mirage) and two coats on the trim/decorative pieces (color: Gloss, Frosted Berry). I’m not the greatest spray painter and I’ve tried several brands. This is by far the smoothest and easiest to apply I have ever tried!

DIY Craft Room: Jumbo Framed Pegboard Wall

The next day, I glued on the four block corners and we trimmed the beaded wood to fit the edges and glued in place and we moved it up to the room to hang it. I just used E6000 glue and clamps to hold the pieces in place while they dried. My husband used studs and/or wall anchors to secure four pieces of wood to the wall, two at the top near each corner and two at the bottom near each corner. Then he held the pegboard up while I screwed it into the wood anchors.

DIY Craft Room: Jumbo Framed Pegboard Wall

We moved a utility table from our garage up to the craft room (Pretty? Not really. But we’re on a budget and it works!). I used an old outdoor chair we had in our garage and painted it pink like the trim of the pegboard.

DIY Craft Room: Jumbo Framed Pegboard Wall

Then, I got to work doing the layout and organizing…by far the hardest part.

DIY Craft Room: Jumbo Framed Pegboard Wall

The giant scissors I got a few years ago at Hobby Lobby.

DIY Craft Room: Jumbo Framed Pegboard Wall

The “Work Hard & Be Kind” sign is one I designed and made. You can find it in my Etsy shop as a downloadable printable or a custom wood sign order!

DIY Craft Room: Jumbo Framed Pegboard Wall

The “Create” banner and dress form I created from paper using my Silhouette CAMEO. The Fabric Yo-Yo Lampshade tutorial can be found here. The lamp stand was an ugly bronze and I painted it with two coats of Annie Sloan Chalk Paint in Arles.

All the shelves on the wall are from my husband’s scrap wood bucket in the garage. All painted in ASCP Arles as well.

DIY Craft Room: Jumbo Framed Pegboard Wall

The tin “Make Stuff and Be Happy” was a Pick Your Plum score and I used my Silhouette CAMEO to do the vinyl text (this cut file in the Silhouette Store).

 

DIY Craft Room: Jumbo Framed Pegboard Wall

Thanks for stopping by to take a peek inside my happy space! I’m so in love with it!

Linking up on TT&J Link Party Palooza – The Creative Collection

Let’s Connect - Facebook – Google+ – Pinterest – Instagram – Twitter – Etsy

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The Chloe Dress Tutorial

The Chloe Dress Main

This is actually an old tutorial that is probably 2+ years old now but it’s still one of my favorite dresses I’ve designed. I originally shared it as a guest post at Whimsy Couture but I’ve never shared it on my own blog so I thought with Spring (hopefully) coming soon that now would be a great time to share it! I had seen a dress similar to this in a boutique that was far beyond my price point, so I went home and got to work on a DIY version. The instructions are a bit lengthy but this dress isn’t nearly as hard to whip up as it might appear.

What You’ll Need:

  • Fabrics of your choice (I bought a half yard bundle of 5 coordinating fabrics)
  • 2 packages of double fold bias tape (I used two different colors)
  • Three 1″ Buttons
  • 1/8″ elastic (You’ll need three 2″ pieces)
  • All Your Sewing Goodies

Let’s get into the measurements.  I promise it’s easier than it sounds.  You’re basically just cutting out a bunch of rectangles.  The ruffle ratio for this dress is 2:1.  We’ll be ruffling the top piece on the bodice and the skirts.

The straps and strap loops will stay the same for most any size:
Straps: Cut four 2″x36″ pieces
Strap Loops: Cut one 3″x9″ piece (we’ll cut it in half later to form two loops)

This dress is based on two basic measurements.  You’ll need to measure your model’s chest (right under the armpits) and her length from armpit to knee.

My daughter’s measurements were 21″ for the chest and 14″ in length from chest to knee.  She typically wears a 2T.  I’ll give you the break down for the additional pieces you’ll need for the 2T and then show you how to adjust this to any size.

  • Bodice piece: Cut one 22″x4″ piece
  • Ruffle piece: Cut one 44″x2″ piece
  • Bottom Layer of Skirt: Cut one 44″x11″ piece
  • Top Layer of Skirt: Cut one 44″x4″ piece and one 44″x5″ piece

This makes my overall length of the dress 15″ before taking about about an inch in seam allowances.

To size this to your model:

  • Bodice Piece: Take your model’s chest measurement + 1″.  Your rectangle needs to be that number x 4″.  So for my daughter, I took 21″+1″ to get 22″, so my bodice piece is 22″x4″.
  • Ruffle Piece: Take your model’s chest measurement + 1″ and multiply by 2.  Cut this length x 2″.  So for my daughter, I took 21″+1″ to get 22″ and multiplied by 2 to get 44″ (44″ is your “ruffle ratio number”).  So my ruffle piece is 44″x2″.
  • Skirt Bottom Layer:  Use your ruffle ratio number (44″ for me) as the long side of the rectangle.  To get the width, take your model’s chest to knee measurement and subtract 3 inches.  So for my daughter, I took 3″ off her 14″ length measurement, I got 11″.  So I cut my rectangle to be 44″x11″.
  • Skirt Top Layer: Again, take your ruffle ratio number as your long side of your rectangle.  You want the total of these two rectangles to be 2″ shorter than you skirt’s bottom layer.  Since that made my top layer 9″ in length, I made one rectangle 44″x4″ and one 44×5″. 

Whew!  Are you still with me?  The math part is over!  Let’s get to the fun part: sewing!

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Unless otherwise noted, use a 1/4″ seam.  Finish all raw seams with a serger or zigzag stitch.  

We’ll start with the straps.  Iron the ends of each strap over about 1/4″ as seen in pic below.  Pin two of your strap pieces right sides together.  Sew with a 1/4″ seam leaving one end open for turning.  Clip the corners.  Turn strap right side out and press seams.  Topstitch using a 1/8″ seam all the way around.  (This will close up that open end).  Repeat for other strap.

P1010355 P1010357

Now take your strap loop piece.  Iron in half length wise.  Open it up and iron each side towards the center fold you just created.  Then fold in half lengthwise again and iron.  (Pretty much like you’re creating a piece of double fold bias tape).  Sew together with a 1/8″ seam and then cut in half so you have two pieces, as shown below.

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Set all strap pieces aside for later use.  Take your bodice piece and fold the short end under 1/4″ and iron.  Fold over another 1/4″ and iron again.  Sew and repeat for other end.

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Now your bodice piece looks like this:

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Set aside while we make the top ruffle.  Fold end short ends of the ruffle piece under 1/4″.  Then fold the entire piece in half length wise with wrong side together and iron again.  Sew the short ends closed.  (I’ve already ruffled and zig zagged in the below pic).

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You can use a ruffling or shirring foot to ruffle along the raw edge or you can set your stitch length to 5.0 and baste a 1/8″ seam.  Do not backstitch.  Pull along thread tails to ruffle by hand.  Ruffle until the piece is the same length as the top edge of your bodice piece.  Pin ruffle generously to top right side of bodice as shown below.

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Sew ruffle to bodice with a 1/4″ seam.  Flip ruffle up up and iron.  Topstitch with a 1/8″ seam.

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We’re done with the bodice for the moment.  Now take the two pieces of the top layer of your skirt and pin with right sides together along one long side.  Sew.  Open, iron seam, and topstitch with a 1/8″ seam.

 

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P1010372

Now take one of your bias tape colors and pin it along the bottom edge of this skirt piece.  Sew as close to the edge of the bias tape as you can, ensuring you catch both sides of the bias tape.

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Pin short sides of this skirt piece with right sides together and sew.  Invert, iron the seam and you’ll have a tube.

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In the same manner, add the other color of bias tape to the bottom edge of the bottom layer of the skirt.  Again, pin the short sides of the skirt piece with right sides together and sew.  Invert, iron the seam and you’ll have another tube.

P1010378

With rides side out, put the bottom layer inside the top layer of the skirt.  Pin together and ruffle the top edge of the skirt piece.  Ruffle until the skirt is the same size as the bodice piece.

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Now we’re going to attach the bodice to the skirt.  Pin the bodice to the skirt with wrong sides together as seen below.  You can put your skirt seams on the side of the dress or in middle of the back.  I choose the back since the bodice already has an opening in the same place.  Pin as if there wasn’t a break in the bodice.  Sew the bodice and skirt pieces together.

P1010381

P1010382

Flip the bodice up, iron the seam, and topstitch with a 1/8″ seam.

P1010383

Now we’ll add the straps.  Fold each strap loop as shown below and pin inside back of dress.  I pinned each strap loop about 1 1/2″ out to each side of the center of the back.  Sew in place.

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P1010387

Now pin the front straps inside the dress about 3″ out from the center of the front of the dress and sew in place.

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Almost done! Sew three buttons along one side of the back opening.  I opted to hand-sew these.  On the other side.  Pin in your elastic pieces in a similar fashion to how we did the back strap loops and sew in place.  I stitch over this a few times since it’ll be getting pulled on.

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This style back closure will allow it to grow with your daughter.  When I made this last summer, it fit my daughter more like a dress and when I tried it on her today, it fit a bit more tunic-like but still has plenty of room in the chest area and paired up super cute with a pair of capri length leggings.  Thread straps through the back strap loops, tie in a bow, and we’re done!!

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The Chloe Dress Modeled

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Women's DIY No-Slip Headbands. Great for running and working out!

DIY Women’s No-Slip Headbands {Great for running and working out!}

Women's DIY No-Slip Headbands. Great for running and working out!

If you follow me on Instagram, you may have seen this picture I posted a few weeks ago about a cute running headband my sweet neighbor made me. It stayed on so well during my runs and workout sessions, I asked her if she had used a tutorial. She said she just made it up based on one someone had gifted her. So I sat down to make myself some and I thought I might as well share a tutorial with you all too!

DIY Women's Non-Slip Headbands. Great for running and working out!

It actually took me about 3 tries to figure out the easiest way to put these together (trying to sandwich the elastic between the ribbons and sewing all the layers at once was a big, fat fail…too slippery!). Once I finally figured out the easiest way, these were super easy to whip up. The “no-slip” secret is velvet ribbon on the underside! Ideally you’ll buy your outer ribbon and your velvet ribbon in the same width but if you can’t I’ll show you an alternate way to do these with velvet ribbon that’s thinner than your main ribbon (as in the Chevron headband).

I found all my ribbons at Hobby Lobby (and they were 50% off too. Score!)

These headbands are one size fits most.

What You’ll Need:

  • Sewing Goodies
  • Ribbon (7/8″ is ideal but the Chevron is 5/8″)
  • Velvet Ribbon
  • Thin Elastic (I used 3/8″ for the 7/8″ wide glitter headbands and 1/4″ for the  5/8″ Chevron headbands)

DIY No-Slip Headbands

Let’s start with the 7/8″ wide headband where the glitter ribbon and velvet ribbon are the same width. Cut one 16 3/4″ piece of each ribbon. With wrong sides together fold ends of ribbon in 1/2″ each and pin (as shown in Step 2 of the photo above).

With an 1/8″ seam allowance, sew along the long sides of the ribbon leaving the short ends open so we can add in the elastic in the next step. Make sure you folded the ribbons in 1/2″ on both ends!

Now take a 7″ piece of elastic and insert it 1/2″ into one end of the main headband piece. Sew in place, going back and forth 3-4 times since this will get tugged on a lot when being pulled off and on. Repeat for the other end making sure the elastic isn’t twisted (or you’ll spend some time with your trusty seam-ripper like I did).

And that’s it! Super cute, right?

If your velvet ribbon is smaller than your main ribbon (as in the Chevron headband), then there’s a simple extra step…

DIY No Slip Headbands

Start by cutting two 16 3/4″ pieces of the main ribbon (chevron) and one 16 3/4″ piece of your velvet. Center your velvet over one of the chevron ribbons as shown and sew in place. I sewed along each side of the velvet (as opposed to down the middle).  Then you’ll use those two pieces and proceed as you did above starting at step 2.

P.S. If you want to check out any of my running posts you can do that here.

Happy sewing!

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